FAQ;
I’VE HEARD OF THE 4 C’s SO SELECTING A DIAMOND IS EASY, ISN’T IT?
No, is the short answer. A diamond’s carat weight is something that is easily determined and verified, however understanding the principles of colour, clarity and cut in diamonds is really just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to determining whether a particular diamond is a good example or a poor example of the grade it has been given. You can read more on this in the “Beware Dodgy Diamonds” page.
The first question to ask is: Who is telling you what cut, colour and clarity the diamond is?
Is the diamond independently certified and if so, by whom?
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is considered the industry standard for certifying diamonds. Other labs use the same terminology as the GIA, but their standards are often different to the GIA. A diamond with a grading report from a secondary lab may differ up to three levels from that of a GIA assessment on the same diamond if it were to have been submitted to the GIA also.
This is just one of the many issues when it comes to understanding the 4 C’s. Even at the GIA some issues arise from time to time in some grades, mainly because at present the SI1 – I1 levels have a very, very broad and wide ranging level of acceptance of some inclusions. The GIA has so far resisted the option of adding a third level to the SI category, as SI3 level, which many in the industry feel would be justified.
At present the GIA is the biggest and best lab in a position to handle the volume required by the diamond industry. It is the best we have. However, even with GIA certification, professional judgment and advice is still absolutely necessary when choosing a diamond.
TWO DIAMONDS HAVE BEEN GIVEN THE SAME GRADE BY THE GIA.
WHY AREN’T THEY THE SAME PRICE?
This is an area that often causes considerable confusion. Even though two diamonds have the same grade given by the same grading lab, no two diamonds are exactly the same. Where there are price differences, it is usually because a diamond may have just scraped into a particular grade level – say SI1. This could be on the borderline of being the next level down the scale – SI2. This diamond should be much cheaper than a diamond that is a very good “high” SI1. The good SI1 could be a borderline VS2 (the next level up).
As referred to in the previous question, the range of diamonds that could be assessed to be in the VS2 -SI1-SI2 and I1 is very very vast and wide ranging, this is why big differences in costs occur within the same grade level. Additionally, a diamond’s clarity is graded by what can be seen from the top, so issues underneath and on the side of the diamond do not always change the grade it is given, but can have a substantial effect on the way the diamond looks. Issues around the girdle are particularly easy to miss if you have no professional contact working on the diamond selection.
Expert advice is needed to get you the best diamond. Comparing oranges with oranges and apples with apples is very difficult for the general public who do not have, as we do, the experience of looking at thousands and thousands of diamonds over the years. People who can see the quality of our work often approach us to have their engagement ring made but think they can get a better deal by supplying their own diamond. It is true that you certainly can buy a cheap diamond with the same grade level as one we would supply. If we chose to, we could also supply the lowest cost diamond in the market.
However, the reason such a diamond is cheap is that there are issues with it, and it would not be a diamond that we would be happy or willing to supply. Visit the “Beware Dodgy Diamonds” page to see some photographs of examples of the dodgy diamonds we have rejected over the years. One of the main reasons our engagement rings look so good, is that we supply great diamonds. No amount of expert craftsmanship can make a poor looking diamond better than it is.
It is for this reason that we choose not to take in work using diamonds supplied by clients. And of course, apart from the 4C’s, there are many, many other factors that affect the sparkle, brilliance and therefore price of any particular diamond. These are not even included in the 4C’s grading system, as their inclusion would just make the certification process very expensive and far too unwieldy.
ARE ALL DIAMONDS CERTIFIED?
No, not all diamonds are certified. Certification by a reputable lab such as the GIA provides you, the consumer, with independent verification that the diamond you are purchasing is the grade claimed by the seller. All diamonds above 0.50ct sold by Ellissi are GIA certified diamonds. For diamonds between 0.25 ct and 0.49 ct it is optional to have a diamond graded. Below 0.20 ct the GIA does not issue diamond grading reports.
WHAT IS DIAMOND LASER INSCRIPTION?
Laser inscription is where a diamond has had the certification number etched by laser on to the edge of the diamond, at its girdle. This is usually done at the time of certification and is an option that is decided upon by the cutter or dealer of the diamond at the time it is submitted to the grading lab.
It is possible to have a diamond laser inscribed after the certification process at any time by submitting the diamond to a competent lab with the necessary equipment. It is also possible to have more than just the diamond’s certification number inscribed, as long as enough space is available. You could have any details you like in theory, your name, the engagement date or ” My other diamond is a 10 ct.”!! Really it is up to you, but be warned - it is not possible to add a laser inscription to a diamond once the diamond has been set into an engagement ring. This requires removing the diamond from the ring mount, which could, depending on the design, require a remake of the ring.
ARE ALL DIAMONDS LASER INSCRIBED?
Many diamond cutters (but not all) will have the diamond’s certification number inscribed on the diamond at the time of having the diamond certified. It is optional and adds around $50.00 to the cost of the diamond certification process. At present diamonds less that 0.20 ct. in weight are not certified by the GIA so these sizes are not generally laser inscribed as it is a service that diamond grading labs like the GIA do not offer at this size. They may in the future, however it adds to the expense of the process.
Having an engagement ring with say 20 or 30 diamonds set into the band and having all diamonds certified and laser inscribed would cost an additional $100 – $150 per diamond, giving you an engagement ring with an additional price tag of many thousands just for the paper work. As a result, we rely on registered valuers to provide an independent assessment of the diamond grade for the small diamonds in a engagement ring.
WHAT IS A VALUATION AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT THAT YOU RECEIVE ONE?
A valuation is an assessment of a given item of Jewellery. To be worth more than the paper it is written on, it should be a document drawn up by an independent valuer who is not part of the organisation that is selling you the diamond engagement ring. It is not uncommon for retailers to write their own valuations, even if they are not qualified valuers. They do so despite this being a clear case of conflict of interest.
A proper valuation should be a document drawn up by a qualified valuer who is registered with the National Council Of Jewellery Valuers ((NCJV ). Valuations provided with engagement rings purchased overseas are not valid for insurance purposes in Australia, even if they are accurate.
A valuation of jewellery is a description of the item/s and verification of the type of metal and its weight and the gemstone content of the piece. Any certification provided with the diamond is noted on the valuation. Valuers have a strict code of conduct and a set of detailed rules they need to apply to arrive at the final assessment of any given item. Once this is done they can then work out the full retail insurance replacement value for the item. This doesn’t necessarily represent the actual purchase cost of the item nor should it be regarded as a statement of the amount you should pay for an item.
The value is assessed for “Insurance Retail Replacement”. It is so an insurance company, if you choose to have the item insured, can get a firm basis for the likely retail / ticket price prior to any discounts being applied.
Ellissi provides an independent valuation from a valuer registered with the NCJV with all diamond engagement rings we make.
THERE IS A LOT OF MISINFORMATION OUT THERE!!!
We are frequently astounded by what we read on the web in relation to diamonds and engagement rings generally, and by what clients tell us they have seen on websites or been told by staff retail shops.
There is a lot of misinformation and misrepresentation out there!! What you see on the Ellissi site are real diamond engagement rings photographed prior to going on the client’s finger. Many websites (and the number is growing daily) have computer drafted images of engagement rings. Some of the images look quite realistic, however many do not. One thing they all have in common is that none are real diamond rings, so the final product is not going to look like what is on screen. Another favorite trick many websites use, is to put a computer image of a diamond ring (as opposed to a photo of a real diamond ring) with a diamond at the centre that is significantly bigger than the size diamond they are actually selling. I recently saw a site that had a diamond ring image showing a ring with a diamond 2.5 times bigger than what the detail stated! If it were not so misleading, it would be laughable!
For us in the Jewellery trade, this is very disappointing, as it reflects badly on the industry as a whole. For people purchasing an engagement ring, it is a nightmare. All we can do is keep plugging away, doing our bit to put the right information out there. Therefore, as a consumer, GIA certification and an independent valuation by a qualified, registered valuer are a must. As this documentation tells only part of the story, it is equally (if not more) important that you find a jeweller you can trust.
HOW MUCH IS A DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING?
Surprisingly this is a commonly asked question that is easily asked but not so easily answered. Diamond rings vary massively in both diamond content and diamond quality. No one price is fixed to replicate an engagement ring design, as many prices are possible on each design. Simply altering one thing like the diamond’s colour grade can change the cost of the engagement ring substantially.
This is the reason the engagement rings you see on this site are not all listed with firm buy prices. In fact, as the diamond rings shown on the Ellissi site are all engagement rings we have made and supplied to clients (actual rings now on client’s fingers), the cost was specific to that client at that time and depended on the prevailing diamond prices of the day. At Ellissi, we can of course quote on any engagement ring and diamond combination. However before doing so we need to first work out the most suitable grade and size diamonds for your available budget.
The first step would be to contact us for a chat, usually via email, just so we can narrow down the field and see what it is possible to achieve.
HOW MUCH SHOULD I BUDGET FOR A DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING?
Determining the budget for an engagement ring is a little tricky and can depend on who you talk to. Some say it should be 3 months wages, but I think it depends on quite a number of things – how you want the ring to look, what size and quality diamond you want, and the funds you feel able to commit to without selling every thing you own.
Really this is a difficult question to answer, as it is different for every couple. I think the best advice here is to work out into which financial bracket you fit, by that I mean deciding what you have to spend on the engagement ring. This will make the process less confusing at the start. Pick a dollar range, as this will help to rule things in or out. i.e 3 – 5 k / 5 – 8 k / 8 – 10k / 10 – 15 k, or above. Then we can look at the options in those areas for any given style or diamond type. It is at this point we can discover what is possible in suitable diamond grades and decide upon a course of action. Selecting a maximum is the best way. You can always come down in price, but at the start it needs to be a workable amount you have set aside for the purchase, or at least intend to set aside.
WHAT IS THE BEST DIAMOND GRADE?
Of course the best grade in diamonds is the highest grade that can be given. However, most people (even Bill Gates!) will have a budget they prefer to work within. Sound, expert advice is crucial, so that a good balance between quality and size can be achieved without compromising on the brilliance and sparkle of the diamond.
It is an important decision, involving a lot of money, as well as the symbolic significance the diamond has in your relationship.
Oh and by the way, I am still awaiting Bill’s call.
WHAT IS THE BEST DIAMOND SHAPE?
The best diamond shape for sparkle and refraction is regarded as the round brilliant cut diamond. However, this is just the best from the scientific point of view. Any shape diamond, if it is well proportioned, and of good quality, will, in most cases still look great.
The shape of a diamond is more about the look that you like in an engagement ring, whether this is its general shape or the particular characteristics of that cut.
Some people don’t like the glittery looking diamonds and prefer the less sparkly emerald cut type of diamond.
The best diamond shape is the one you like the best … making sure you have a really nice example of its kind gives it the best chance to perform and look great on your hand.
After all if the diamond you select for your engagement ring is not a good example of its type you cannot expect the engagement ring to look its best and sparkle, you really need to give it everything it needs… It needs a well cut quality diamond !
PLATINUM OR WHITE GOLD, WHICH IS BEST?
Let’s look at the two metals in turn.
PLATINUM.
A white metal, not related to gold. Platinum is very durable due largely to its denseness. Platinum is generally more costly than gold. It is also heavier, so you need more (by weight) to make any given design. It is harder to work with because of its very high melting point (1772 degrees celcius) and difficult to polish. Keeping the polished look that the ring has when new is almost impossible due to the malleability of platinum. Is it more durable than gold? It is not exactly harder than gold, just denser, so it is longer lasting than gold, because it moves around rather than wears away, as gold does.
Saying this, 18 ct gold still lasts for many, many decades if the ring is correctly made.
The bottom line: Platinum will cost more to supply. The ring cost will be higher because of time factors. Platinum is scratched quite easily. Re-polishing the deep marks out requires removing the surface – quite a difficult polishing job.
Some jewellers will not work in platinum because of the difficulties associated with it. Platinum is a nice looking metal however the surface will get abraded with wear, so in the end, white yes, but not a great shine compared to 18 ct white gold that is rhodium plated.
Positives; It is a white metal will last 3 generations or longer, as long as the design has a good basis in construction i.e not really thin claws etc.
WHITE GOLD / 18 CT,
18 CT WHITE GOLD is an alloy (mixture) of yellow gold and palladium. The mix is 750 parts of pure gold, which of course is yellow per 1000, or 75 %, the remaining 25% being a mix of metals including mostly palladium, it varies depending on the requirements of the alloy.
That is why it is usually stamped 750. Most of the alloy is of course yellow because that is what gold is. Palladium is a white metal that is too soft and difficult to work with, generally, to use on its own for making jewellery.
Eighteen carat white gold is very resilient. It is a bit harder than platinum, but will scratch, maybe not quite as deeply as platinum does. It lasts longer than you or I will ever need. Think of antique Jewellery that is still around after 100 years (if it has been looked after).
All gold jewellery wears out in time, especially if it has moving parts, such as bracelets or necklaces. I suppose there is a certain symmetry in the fact that gold wears away over many many decades, washed down the sink in tiny quantities, it ends up back in the earth, where it came from. Rings generally are no trouble, if made correctly. Engagement rings will rub away over time against wedding rings and with general wear and tear. Have a look at your grandparent’s wedding and engagement rings and you will see the results of this wear and tear over the passage of time.
The downside of 18 ct white gold is that the alloy is not quite white ( because the alloy is mostly yellow). Good alloys have a kind of grey look. Cheap overseas alloys can be quite yellow because they save money in making the alloy by using less palladium.
White gold is rhodium plated to give it a better colour. Rhodium is another white metal.
This rhodium plating will come off over time on the exposed surfaces, especially around the back of the band where most of the wear occurs. The detailed sections on the design will remain white particularly in the grooved sections (if any) as to some extent they are protected, so where it comes off will be mostly evident on the back of the band, which will look a bit grey.
White gold is very easy to re-polish compared to platinum. Re-applying the rhodium is quite easy if you have the proper equipment. Usually the cost will be around $50. Depending on how well you look after your rings, re-plating may be required every few years.
The simple fact is that there is no single great white metal for jewellery. All have plusses and minuses. The cost difference in an engagement ring could be around $1000 between 18 ct white gold and platinum, depending on the metal costs at any given time (these rise and fall on a daily basis), and the metal weight required to complete the job.
When making Jewellery, you start with more metal than you finish with, so some cost is not totally recovered from the wastage (filings etc). Platinum can cost more in wastage than the finished piece, so this needs to be covered in the final cost that is charged to the client.
It is for this reason that I often advise that your money may be better spent on the diamond for the engagement ring , rather than paying extra for platinum at the expense of the diamond. A $1000 more put into the engagement ring diamond will look better than the difference between the white metals.
CAN ENGAGEMENT RINGS AND DIAMONDS BE DAMAGED?
Rings are by no means indestructible, so damage can occur. Really, a sensible approach to looking after something that is valuable is required. The most common way to damage a diamond engagement ring is to wear it whilst doing something that is really abrasive, such as wearing the ring whilst at the gym. Using heavy equipment like weights etc WILL damage the metal and could also potentially damage or chip the gemstones. Yes, even diamonds are not indestructible and can be damaged in this way.
BLOOD DIAMONDS WHERE DO THEY COME FROM?
Blood diamonds are diamonds that originate in countries that are judged to be in a state of conflict and the money generated from the sale of diamonds is being used to fund this conflict.
Countries that are judged to be “in conflict” by the United Nations are excluded from selling unpolished diamonds to the main diamond industry. A system of verification of origin is in place with countries abiding by a number of checks and balances to maintain a clean supply of diamonds.
This system of verification is called the Kimberley Process.
Signatories to the Kimberley process agree not to trade in diamonds that originate from these areas, all importation and exportation of uncut diamonds must be accompanied buy the correct documentation and verification of origin.
Australia is a signatory to this agreement, as is the USA and many other countries.
Jewellery trade organizations also agree to not knowingly deal in any diamonds sourced from countries that do not comply to and are signatories of this process.
DOES ELLISSI DO REMAKES AND REPAIRS TO DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS AND OTHER JEWELLERY?
Generally the answer is no, unless it is by way of assisting an existing client. In the main our workload keeps us so busy that it becomes really difficult to fit every request in, so repairs and remakes are just not possible.
CAN SUPPLY MY OWN DIAMOND FOR MOUNTING?
I have a few points to make in this area.
1) Making diamond engagement rings is a complex job.
It requires enormous skill and great attention to detail. When a person buys a loose diamond, the decisions on the correct parameters for the ring design have been taken out of our hands. If the diamond is a poor shape or cut then this will have an adverse effect on the look of the final ring. For example, if a fancy shaped diamond (anything that is not a round brilliant cut diamond) has been poorly cut, and the faceting of the diamond is not symmetrical, the ring will always look crooked, even though it is perfectly straight.
2) Paying for the damage.
Setting rings with diamonds is not done without risk of damage to the diamond. Setting a diamond ring requires applying a great deal of pressure to the diamond. If we are supplying the diamond, then we take on the risk of damage occurring to the diamond. If there is a problem, then we replace the diamond with one of equal or better quality than the original. We have insurance to cover this. There is a far greater risk of damage if the diamond is in some way deficient either in cut, shape or a bad choice in the clarity. A square shaped diamond with faults in the corners is particularly vulnerable to damage when it is being set. A whole corner of the diamond can be broken off. Making the ring mount only, as a service, does not give us any margin to take on this risk.
3) Risks in diamond selection.
It is easy to become an armchair “expert” by reading the information (and misinformation) over the internet. The problem is that many people buy with price as the main driving force. This is fine if you are buying exactly the same product such as a particular brand and model of TV and you are comparing the price of the TV between retailers. Diamonds are not like TV’s! Every diamond is different, and their price reflects these differences. Understanding the way diamonds are priced requires years of training and experience in dealing with diamonds to know the many, many pitfalls of buying on price alone. When we make an engagement ring we want it to be a great looking ring – the best the client can have for their budget. With no control over the diamond selection, we are not in a position to be able to guarantee this.
4) Incorrect diamond grading and the risk to our business and reputation.
I‘ve saved this bit until last, as it is the most important. Just because a diamond has been bought as a graded diamond – take for example, F colour and SI1 clarity, does not mean that is so. The grading given to any particular diamond is, at the end of the day, someone’s opinion.
Although all the labs use the same terminology, grading standards between laboratories vary. This means that the same diamond could be given two completely different grades if it were submitted to a couple of different labs for grading.
This difference can often be between two and three grade levels. If such a diamond is worked on by a reputable jeweller and then re assessed at a later date and found to be not as high a grade as the client had originally thought, it becomes a real problem.
This is because, through no fault of their own, the last person to have worked on the engagement ring (the jeweler) gets the blame for any subsequent discrepancy in the assessment of the diamond, even though it is nothing to do with the jeweler at all, it is just that the opinion of the first person who graded the diamond may not have been accurate.
Therefore, using a diamond supplied by a client exposes us to a risk we simply will not take. Our business reputation has been built up over many, many years of good service and supplying great products to our clients, and is too valuable to us to be marred by any issue of this kind.
DO I NEED TO VISIT IN PERSON TO CHOOSE A DIAMOND AND HAVE AN ENGAGEMENT RING MADE ?
Many clients see us in our Melbourne studio workshop in person. We are not a retail shop and do not have sales staff. You are seen by one of our jewelers who are always working to deadlines, so we request that an appointment be made prior to coming in. Many of our clients are not able to see us in person, because of their work commitments or the geographical location they live in. We provide a very comprehensive service, so much can be achieved via email and / or the telephone.
HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO MAKE THE ENGAGEMENT RING?
We try as far as possible to have rings completed in around 2-3 weeks from the deposit date, although due to the complexity of some designs, our work load at the time, and possible difficulty sourcing from our cutters the harder to find diamond types, it can vary from ring to ring. One thing is for sure – the best diamond rings are not the rushed ones, so please allow some leeway for the time that is required for us to do our work.
WHAT PAYMENT OPTIONS DO WE HAVE?
Payment options are the usual type – Visa , Master Card, direct transfer via net bank. Direct deposit give you the most buying power, although we are happy to look at a combination of credit and cash / net-bank.
WHAT GUARANTEE DO WE GET?
Gold, platinum and diamonds do not rust or rot, so as long as the ring is looked after, there is no reason to expect that it will not last for a lifetime and beyond. At Ellissi our workmanship is guaranteed for a lifetime, so you can be assured of the ring standard. General wear and tear or damage to a ring from misuse is of course excluded from this, although we try our best to rectify any issue regardless of the reason it has occurred. This is not always possible without some cost. It should be remembered that diamond rings are not indestructible and can be damaged. We recommend all clients take out insurance cover against loss and damage.
HOW DO I LOOK AFTER MY NEW RING?
Do expect your engagement ring to get some dirt in the setting. Day to day activities such as washing your hands, putting on hand cream etc. all result in a residue building up on the surface of your ring. If you can, wherever possible, remove the ring whilst engaged in these activities and this will help minimize the build–up. I know it is not always possible when you are not at home.
When your engagement ring gets some grime in the setting, the best thing to do is to use a fine brush like a tooth brush (finer if you have something in your makeup kit), hot water in the sink with a good drip of washing up liquid on the ring and get a good froth happening, get the brush into the back / sides of the setting then rinse it off to check how good a job you have done. A minute or two should do it. Then blow the excess water out and dry with a tissue / soft cloth.
You can expect that the gold will get a few scratches on it as it is softer than the average surfaces that it has contact with such as door handles made of stainless steel etc.
This is the case particularly at the back of the band, so expect some abrasion from day one. This can / will lead to a slight discolouration of the band, but its unavoidable unless the ring stays in the box it came in. These scratches will disappear when you bring your ring in to be re-polished.
Polishing brings the surface up to just like it was when it was new. White gold does require a rhodium covering from time to time to keep it looking white. Usually this is done every 18 months – 2 years. Your ring will be re polished at the same time.
Jewellers who have the equipment will do this, generally the cost will be around $60 ( approx ) it depends on how well you have been looking after your jewellery.
Looking after the ring is the best plan, so clean it when you feel it needs it. Avoid the things that can really damage it, I am thinking here of the gym (don’t stop going, but protect / remove the ring if using weights etc).
Try not to beat yourself up over a few marks that will always happen. It is part of what gold is.
Most of all, enjoy wearing your engagement ring. The is your little bit of pure crystalised carbon, billions of years old, a little bit of perfect stardust.
Ellissi
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